How to Measure for Kitchen Cabinets (San Antonio Homeowner's Checklist)
Step-by-step instructions for measuring your kitchen before ordering cabinets. Includes our free PDF worksheet and the 6 measurements every contractor needs.
Whether you're getting a quote, planning a DIY install, or just want to verify your contractor's order, knowing how to measure your kitchen accurately is gold.
Tools and three rules that prevent most mistakes
You need a 25-foot steel tape (skip the laser for short runs — it reads long into corners), a pencil, and a rough overhead sketch of the room on paper. Then:
- Work in inches only, to the nearest ⅛". No feet-and-inches mixing, no metric.
- Always round down. A cabinet run ¼" short disappears behind a filler; ¼" long simply doesn't go in.
- Measure to the bare wall, and note existing tile, backsplash, or base trim thickness separately — most of it is coming off.
The six measurements
- Wall lengths, corner to corner. Every wall in order, going clockwise. They have to close the loop on your sketch.
- Ceiling height at three points per wall. In 1970s–80s San Antonio ranches a ¾" difference across one wall is routine, and that number decides whether uppers can run to the ceiling.
- Window and door openings. Width, height, and the distance from the nearest corner to the edge of the casing — plus sill height for any window over a sink.
- Appliance openings. Refrigerator, range, dishwasher, microwave: the width, depth, and height of the space that must stay clear. If you're keeping an appliance, measure the unit too, including handle projection.
- Plumbing and electrical. Center of the sink drain and supply lines, measured off the nearest corner and up from the floor, plus the gas line, outlets, and switches.
- Obstructions. Soffits, bulkheads, HVAC returns, and pipe chases — height, depth, and exactly where each starts and stops.
Check for square before you trust any of it
Houses here sit on expansive clay that moves with every wet-dry season, so out-of-square corners are the norm rather than the exception. Two quick checks: measure each wall at floor height, at 36", and at 84" — differing numbers mean the wall leans. Then run a level along the floor across the base cabinet run; more than ⅜" of slope in 8 feet means the installer will be shimming and your countertop template changes. Write down both results; they matter as much as the lengths.
The mistakes we see most often
- Measuring to the existing cabinets or trim instead of the wall behind them.
- Forgetting a refrigerator needs 1"–2" of clearance beyond its listed width, plus room for the door to swing clear of an adjacent wall.
- Ignoring where an open dishwasher door lands relative to a corner cabinet.
- Not noting which direction the room's entry door opens.
Print the worksheet, then let us verify it
Our free measuring guide and printable PDF worksheet has a blank floor plan with a labeled space for each of the six measurements above — take it into the kitchen and fill it in. Then, before anything gets ordered, book a free in-home measurement. We re-check every number on site at no charge, because a ⅛" error caught in your kitchen costs nothing and the same error caught on install day costs a cabinet.
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